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Travel & Holiday

Edgy East End gets facelift

Bohemian east London has a dramatic makeover for the Olympics
The Straits Times - February 7, 2012
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Edgy East End gets facelift Indie vibe: Visitors to east London may want to start from Brick Lane and explore the trendy vintage shops. -- PHOTO: ASSOCIATED PRESS

London - It was called 'outcast London' for its squalid slums in Victorian times, has the dubious reputation as the haunt of Jack the Ripper, and one of Britain's most polluted rivers runs through its long-derelict shipyards and warehouses.

It is no wonder that for a long time, east London has been all but ignored by tourists who stick to the West End, the home of blockbuster musicals, royal palaces, Harrods and Oxford Street.

This year, those prejudices are likely to change as the Olympics inject huge investments into changing the face of the East End.

Massive redevelopment works in the area have already given it a dramatic makeover. In Stratford, a former marsh and one of the city's poorest areas, a pristine Olympic Stadium, a gigantic new shopping mall and upgraded train links are already in place. In less than six months' time, there will be cycle paths, green spaces and cleaned-up riverbanks.

All that will bring new interest to a part of London that, though long neglected, has recently become recognised for growing its own elite fashion, arts and high-tech business communities.

And so, if Brick Lane is the farthest east you have ever ventured, now is the time to visit the city's fastest-changing corner - you will be pleasantly surprised.

What is there to see? Start from Brick Lane, but perhaps skip some of the famous but overpriced curry houses. Instead, wander north-east up to the Shoreditch and Dalston areas for their weekend markets, vibrant nightlife, diverse ethnic cuisine and trendy vintage shops.

The area's lower rents have long attracted young artists and musicians - although in recent years, gentrification has hiked property prices, drawn in celebrities and hipsters, and pushed struggling artists to seek out warehouse spaces still farther east.

Even so, there is still a bohemian, appealingly scruffy vibe about the place. Unlike in the West End, development in the east has been uneven and spontaneous. A couple of cutting-edge boutiques would turn an unassuming side street quite suddenly into the city's trendiest spot, and high-concept art spaces often sit right next to fried chicken takeaways and dollar stores.

One of the biggest obstacles to visiting the east used to be the lack of easy public transport connections to central London.

That's not a problem anymore: Along with improvements to the rundown Tube stations and creaky trains all over London, authorities have installed brand-new, comfortable trains that now connect the city centre with communities in the East End, with nine transport lines feeding into Stratford, the Olympic hub.

A high-speed train, called the Javelin Shuttle, will link Stratford with St Pancras, the renovated Eurostar terminal.

East London's canals, long notorious for their murky, shallow waters and all-around shabbiness, will also be cleaned up. The backbone of London's commercial activity before the railways took over, these waterways used to be a magnet for rubbish and muggers.

With the Olympics, though, they - along with the polluted River Lea, right next to the Stadium - will be in the spotlight. Officials want spectators to walk or cycle to the games site, and the towpaths along the waterways, snaking from the west to east along Victoria Park, are ideal.

A mass volunteer campaign is under way to engage Londoners to tidy up the network, hopefully finishing by July. One charity, Thames21, is trying to recruit 4,000 volunteers, many of them school children, to pick up litter, remove weeds and plant flowers to beautify the canals.

 

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